Brovey Lair Reviews
The (Which) Good Food Guide 2008 writes
Blink for a second as you pass through the art-strewn hallway into the cool, contemporary kitchen-cum-dining room and you could be forgiven for thinking you had been transported to another country. There’s a feel of warmer climes about the view from the plate-glass windows over the terrace, swimming pool and lush garden.
But it is the air of confidence that strikes visitors, so unusual in such a rural spot, combined with Mike and Tina Pemberton’s understanding of that elusive cosset factor, which makes eating here rather like attending a civilised dinner party. It’s a unique experience. Lack of choice is always a high-risk strategy, partly because expectations are naturally high – visitors can expect something wonderful in return for giving up their right to choose and Tina’s blending of ideas from the Mediterranean and Asia cooked in front of you on a tepan grill is a success.
Fish and seafood are the main inspiration, a meal opening, perhaps, with sesame-coated Chinese five-spice scallops on mixed leaves with a lime, coriander, ginger and spring onion vinaigrette; before a soup of carrot and coriander with ginger, turmeric, fresh orange juice and toasted pine nuts. Monkfish and tiger prawns on squid ink noodles and a salad of mixed leaves with a wasabi, mustard and honey dressing is a typical main course, before a dessert of Caribbean brioche-and-butter coconut pudding with rum soaked raisins. Booking is essential, and breakfast for those staying is outstanding.
Square Meal – BMW review by Annica Svensson
The Norfolk retreat is now an essential part of the SW3 sets property portfolio - and the arrival of Brovey Lair means that even those who can't afford their own can now join the Friday night convoy up the A11.
It may not be located in Chelsea-on-Sea (that's Burnham Market to the uninitiated), but this highly original operation has all the makings of a comfortable home from home, including two modern bedrooms with all the right features - digital TV, linen from the White Company - and views of the garden and pool. Best of all, entertaining here is easy (and we do recommend bringing friends).
Mike and Tina Pemberton put a personal spin on the restaurant concept, resulting in an experience that's very much like a dinner party. Guests arrive through an art-filled gallery to the kitchen/diner where drinks and nibbles are served at the kitchen counter/bar, ahead of a four course, no-choice menu specially put together for the evening (expect to be quizzed on your likes and dislikes when you phone to book).
While Mike runs front-of-house, Tina rules the kitchen. She used to travel extensively as a food critic and these global experiences are evident in her skilfully executed cooking. Our visit saw velvety tuna sashimi paired with nutty sesame dressing ahead of an almost Moorish butternut squash soup with toasted almonds, and tepan-fried monkfish on a tangy salad of mixed leaves and soba noodles.
Perhaps most memorable of all was the clever twist on bread and butter pud, with rum-infused coconut milk and brioche buns replacing the usual cream and white bread to a light, almost soufflé-like effect. Those who stay over can look forward to a great treat for breakfast the next morning, too.
Waitrose Food Illustrated review by Anthony Jones
Brovey Lair is not so much a restaurant as a private house, down a quiet Norfolk road, where hosts Tina and Mike Pemberton throw Michelin-standard dinner parties for paying guests. As a former food critic who spent 17 years in search of the perfect restaurant, chef Tina only prepares food that she likes eating herself – generally Thai-Japanese-Mediterranean fusion, and always seafood – and cooks just one set menu each evening (£47.50).
The conservatory that houses the restaurant, bar and kitchen is modern, tasteful and comfortable, with seating for 24 guests. We began our evening at the bar, munching on tapas of marinated anchovies, caper berries and olives, while watching Tina prepare our starter of tiger prawns grilled with chilli, mint and coriander on a crunchy bean sprout salad. With plenty of bite and a subtle kick to the dressing, there was nothing to fault here. Following that was a house speciality – portabella mushroom and miso soup with Japanese sea vegetables, a delicious, intensely dark liquid to be mopped up with fresh crusty bread.
The main course was tepan-grilled Cajun spiced swordfish, really fresh-tasting and buttery to bite into, with an orzo, pine nut and basil salad, roasted aubergine wedges, peppers and a vine tomato, lime and sweet chilli marmalade. While the meal as a whole was fantastic, it was clearly with this course that Brovey Lair has earned its place in the Michelin Red Guide; the fish was superbly cooked and the combination of ingredients was imaginative and successful.
Sadly, it left little room for the white wine, pear and polenta cake that followed, which was tasty, but after three courses it would have been nice to have the option of something a little lighter to round off the meal. Nevertheless, having made sterling use of the superb wine list, it was good to know that Brovey Lair also offers some very smart rooms to crash out in, as well as fantastic (tropical and zesty) Californian-Mexican breakfasts: the perfect cure for a hangover, so I'm told.
